According to jewelry scholars Peter Hinks and Vivian Becker, large helmet shells had first been skillfully carved into cameos starting in the fifteenth or sixteenth centuries. The craft was revived in Sicily around 1805. A friendly material to work with, but requiring multiple stages of carving and polishing with specialized tools and materials, helmet shells yield layers of white, brown and cornelian tones. As the jewels' popularity grew through the 19th century, specialized Italian artisans were sought after for their skills not only in Italy but in Paris and London, where Italians dominated this rarified branch of the arts. The high level of detail in the features of gods and goddesses achieved in the soft material of this bracelet suggests an accomplished carver at work.